SUMMARYIn this chapter, we discussed the basic principles andproperties of ocean waves, associated terms, and wavespectrum. Next we considered forecasting of seawaves, generation and growth, and the characteristics offully and nonfully developed seas. Wind field and fetchareas were also covered followed by an objectivemethod of forecasting sea waves. We also covered thegeneration, dispersion and angular spreading of swellwaves, as well as an objective method for forecastingswell waves. The generation of surf and associatedcharacteristics, the three breaker types, definition ofterms, and an objective technique for forecasting surfwere also considered, followed by an explanation of themodified surf index. Finally, we looked at forecastingsurface currents, wind driven currents, coastal and tidalcurrents.6-19
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