SUMMARY
In this chapter, we discussed the basic principles and
properties of ocean waves, associated terms, and wave
spectrum. Next we considered forecasting of sea
waves, generation and growth, and the characteristics of
fully and nonfully developed seas. Wind field and fetch
areas were also covered followed by an objective
method of forecasting sea waves. We also covered the
generation, dispersion and angular spreading of swell
waves, as well as an objective method for forecasting
swell waves. The generation of surf and associated
characteristics, the three breaker types, definition of
terms, and an objective technique for forecasting surf
were also considered, followed by an explanation of the
modified surf index. Finally, we looked at forecasting
surface currents, wind driven currents, coastal and tidal
currents.
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